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Post by mhensen on Jul 4, 2016 10:31:45 GMT
Hey Michael Hope your keeping well, hows things going with your sim? hopefully you've been making some progress? Hi Paul, Sorry I haven't been able to do anything sim wise.. I have broken my ankle in may and have been in the IC because of severe bood cluttering in my lungs.. I hope that today the cast of my leg will be removed..!! I saw that you also noticed that for the oculus you need short and swift movements, I haven't changed my settings on the A13 but I'll have to check that.. I really, really want to start driving the sim again.. even more now that I have the new oculus sitting in the box for the last 2 weeks.. And I have to figure out how I am gonna attach the new oculus camera to the rig!! But the problem is that I have to get up and down 2 stairs with my crutches.. and then manouvre around in the tight space I've left dus to the size of the sim :-) Hope to be back behind the wheel in a couple of days.. as I go on holiday in 10 days time :-( still hoping I can use the leg a bit more by then!!! So in the end, I haven't done anything and I am still not done with the sim.. even after 6 months after the initals build start :-) but I think we all get there |
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Post by paulg100 on Jul 4, 2016 11:59:42 GMT
Sorry to hear that michael i assumed you had just been busy with work, good to hear you are on the mend!! Well hopefully we can solve some of the problems whilst you are away, Racing is better with shorter fast movements but for flight and eg rollercoaster sims big movements still work better i think providing they are fast, smooth and responsive which im working on now. Even without 6dof math at present simtools and no limits 2 as ALOT of fun  Ill get a picture of how i have my camera mounted, it works fine and is nothing fancy. The key is the PID tuning but im having a hard time dialling that in so far. Fabis tool is not working for me so far so have to find another way. look forward to working through the tuning and improving things when your back in the saddle  |
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lupus
Users
Never GIVE UP
Posts: 24 
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Post by lupus on Jul 24, 2016 18:59:30 GMT
Congratulating with your project, michael, i send you my best wishes for your health!
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Post by mhensen on Aug 7, 2016 9:38:11 GMT
Finally back into the sim, as I can get in now :-)
Most of the time I am busy with BFF.. I cannot get the xsimulator running ok I think.. Perhaps a few screenshots of you controller init/shutdown and the axis config would help..
I have it installed but as soon as I want to test the axis motion manually motors 4 and 5 got the lower position.. Perhaps I need to wait for xsimulator 2.0, should not be long as I've heard from the dev!
For now I am focused on BFF and the Oculus CV1..
Damn.. that is the real deal.. Tuning the motion to be sharp so that you don't get out of sync with the view, but so cool and so much fun!!
The only think I have is what has been mentioned before on the xsimulator forum.. The 'sinking' view while driving!!
You need to recenter many times after big roll motions.. So the solution seems to be to have a camera gimbal installed and have the oculus camera on it..
Only the roll needs to be compensated.. I tested it by disabling the roll and then the camera offset is minimal, could be I move around a bit :-)
I tried to have the camera dead centered but that doesn't help much.. So I have the gimbal on order and this will come in the coming week..
As soon I've installed and tested it I will shoot a video to show you the setup!
As for tuning.. I have my P at 22 and I and D at 0.. Still have the crackling noise when not running but I don't care :-)(I wear the oculus so the sound is overruled by the headset)
For the rest I have my axis's limited to 50%, heave at 25% and the yaw to 15% and turned the online speed up to 80, and perhaps will go up higher..
Make it short, snappy and fast movement.. I think you should bang you head against the headrest on gear changes :-)
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Post by paulg100 on Aug 7, 2016 10:29:33 GMT
Great to see you back in action and look forward to the vids.
I am STILL!! working hard at the crackling issue, must be nearing 100 hours now trying to sort this issue! have ruled out allot of potential causes but still no nearer to finding the solution.
its past the fun stage now but i am stubborn so i will keep at it!!
What are you running a013 and B082 in vfd at?
i really need to try and get time to shoot a video of the lag it causes if we raise these, B082 at 0.1 creates a huge dead spot, if anything we want this as low as possible but without solving the crackling
issue first its not possible to lower it.
From my tests im pretty sure A013 can be left at (default). B082 ( start frequency) has the biggest impact on the crackling and also the lag.
I think we need to get this solved as apart from the degradation in performance im concerned it is going to shorten the life span of the motors considerably by ignoring it?.
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Post by mhensen on Aug 7, 2016 11:55:53 GMT
I have A13 at 0.1 and B082 at 0.50.. I will play with those settings too!
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Post by paulg100 on Aug 7, 2016 12:54:45 GMT
OK thanks
B082 is pretty good at 0.05 with only a small amount of lag between moving the axis and the motor responding (less is even better). Raising B082 to 0.1 will virtually eliminate the crackling but it results in a big dead zone, which can easily be seen by moving an axis in BFF in manual mode.
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Post by GA-Dawg on Aug 9, 2016 13:36:41 GMT
Hey Guys,
So do you have the motion/noise on all motors? Some of mine are completely "quite" and other with just a touch (showing about .5 on the VFD). I have look at it a few times but not sure why it is on some and not others.
Trying to the the sync sorted out is definitely time consuming. I have found that having the accl/decl ramp very low helps. I was woundering which game/sim your trying to tune.
Cheers,
GA Dawg
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Post by paulg100 on Aug 9, 2016 15:59:32 GMT
What I found is that I have at least one motor that is perfect (actually one closest to the control cabinet) providing I leave all others switched off. I can then get a pretty good PID tune and get the motor stopping sharp and returning spot on home consistently without any offset or jitter. Once I start flicking more VFD's on the loop becomes noisier (signal wise) which is to be expected as your adding more switching noise to the loop. Once one motor starts jittering, then this contaminates the loop then all hell breaks loose. Things I have eliminated: Its not a VFD/motor issue as if I run the motors from the VFD panel without the AMC on and no pots then I can run as low as B082 0.01 and everything is buttery smooth ( in an ideal world this is what we should be aiming for, the difference in motion smoothness is very noticeable, even from 0.05 default.) and I'm pretty sure its not a software config issue. I know you can set pot volt home in BFF software but I have the same issue with other software. Once I introduce the AMC (even without PC on), the PID loop and the pots then this is when the problem starts. I "THINK" it may be due to noise coming from the pots (signal noise maybe a result of emi from VFD's). This affects their ability to give a proper reading and therefor it upsets the PID loop. Without knowing what is acceptable signal noise its hard to know if this is the issue. I need to take some vids of the oscilloscope in action then we can see and hopefully the guys that are more clued up on electronics can advise. The otherthing I'm not certain is if not having the pots completely aligned may be causing the issue. The shaft is being pulled off center whilst rotating which affects the reading. (non linear) I have a 3d printer being delivered in a couple of days which will allow me to print couplers and brackets with CAD accuracy which should get things allgined spot on. At the moment my pots are not spot on. (although close enough that I'm doubtful this may be the issue) one last thing, I'm using USB cables for my pot signal (originally switched from audio cable). This is pretty thin wire, like 26-28 awg. Maybe there is to much resistance in the wire, but others are using similar cables without issues so I'm not sure this is the culprit. At the moment I'm not tuning/playing any games  . Until I sort the loop noise/jitter issue I cant PID tune properly, and until the PID is tuned properly you cant tune the sim/games properly. |
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Post by paulg100 on Aug 9, 2016 18:05:40 GMT
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Post by mhensen on Aug 12, 2016 19:42:13 GMT
back to the sinking in the cockpit due to the roll off the sim..
it works.. Have a gimbal, but only use the roll axis!!
The rest of the axis's aren't really an issue!
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Post by paulg100 on Aug 12, 2016 20:06:35 GMT
cool could you post a link to the gimbal you bought? thanks
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Post by nopilotyet on Aug 13, 2016 14:35:07 GMT
In an effort to reduce noise on the pot feedback circuit, verify that the shields are only grounded on one end. If both ends are grounded, ground current loops can induce voltage on your signal wires. Also separate signal wire bundles away from VFD high voltage. Just some stuff to check.
Nopilotyet
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Post by Trip Rodriguez on Sept 2, 2016 11:36:22 GMT
back to the sinking in the cockpit due to the roll off the sim..
it works.. Have a gimbal, but only use the roll axis!!
The rest of the axis's aren't really an issue!
It worked, problem solved? You are a genius man! What gimbal did you buy? I need to order one for myself =) |
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Post by mhensen on Sept 3, 2016 10:14:38 GMT
Yep it works.!!!!! :-) problem not comlpetly solved by a whole lot better!!
. although you still have to do a recenter, it is much,much less and less often, I even sometimes just forget to recenter..
Any cheap 2 axis gimbal works and I only use one axis, I have it connected to a small 3S lipo I had alying around from my drones...
I removed the second motor as only the roll needs to be compensated!
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Ill get a picture of how i have my camera mounted, it works fine and is nothing fancy.
. Until I sort the loop noise/jitter issue I cant PID tune properly, and until the PID is tuned properly you cant tune the sim/games properly.
