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Post by tronicgr on Mar 1, 2016 11:23:14 GMT
Congrats! The motion looks good! It seems to me that the left-right motion cues are inverted... It should lean/slide to the right when you make left turn...  Thanks Thanos |
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Post by mhensen on Mar 1, 2016 12:04:15 GMT
had that feeling too :-) but that is part of the tuning.. I only changed the usable range of the default file. Still figuring out what all the settings mean in the file, although I have all kind of hardware securities, I don't want to rely on them too much :-) so I make small adjustments and only one at a time ..
I do remember I changed the left-right on the mini model but didn't do it in the real version!! Thanks!!
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Post by paulg100 on Mar 6, 2016 16:13:41 GMT
Hi Michael
How's the tuning going?
Everything is working as its supposed to I hope?
I'm busy rewiring everything! should have everything moving again by next weekend..
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Post by mhensen on Mar 7, 2016 22:16:29 GMT
Have been away for the last 5 days.. and hope to get back to the sim by tomorrow..:-)
I have BFF running but I need too tune each DOF to get the right feel for the oculus..
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Post by mhensen on Mar 9, 2016 10:02:57 GMT
Tuning of BFF for the oculus is a hard.. If I set the motion too steep the oculus looses it's focal point ..
This while the camera is fixed on the rig, it shifts the view, internal sensors are disturbing the camera.... So I think I need to tune it to short but hard motion instead of deep/high pitching.. (I end up somewhere outside the car.. this is LFS testing, not sure about other games yet.
So I have to restart from the beginning and try to make a BFF config that is not moving too steep I guess.
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Post by paulg100 on Mar 9, 2016 11:02:07 GMT
Good to hear you had a rest , you probably needed a break from sim building!
Ill be using a rift also, apart from coming up with some kind of shock absorbing mount, ive wondered is it really necessary to have positional tracking when racing? do you really need the camera.
Having said that is there an option (in oculus config util) to run without the camera now or will it not work at all, i forget?.
Ill probably have my CV1 by the time i get a chair etc mounted on mine, maybe the tracking on that will be more robust..
Really someone needs to get some software out to offset motion with the rig against the rig (either by adding sensors to rig or maybe just strapping a touch to it when they come out)
keep tinkering, your experiences will be really helpful when i get that far!
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Post by snafky on Mar 9, 2016 15:50:30 GMT
I had the DK2 (sold it to save up for the Release rift) you cannot run without the camera. Head tracking is a essential part of the rift and uses the camera for that. On Thanos his homepage is a link to :http://www.vectionvr.com/ Which says Oculus Rift motion simulator stabilizer on the link. Not sure if there is info there....... Hope to start my build at the end of this year (hopefully). mhensen is the footprint larger than 2x3 meter of the sim Because i cannot get bigger room than 2 meters wide. If it is i have to make up a design that fits that footprint... Otherwise i hope to do a copy from you as yours looks so pristine ;-) |
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Post by mhensen on Mar 11, 2016 7:39:28 GMT
Hi Snafky,
the footprint itself is roughly 1,75x2 meter.. but you will need some extra space to move around to build it up.. It is not something that you just can move aside to do something on the far side of the sim..
I think that against the time I have it all dialed in you should come by and see (and try) it yourself.. Then you can decide it much easier.. I also think it depends on how you are gonna use it..
With rift the motion will be more subtle and stringer but with monitors you can have a wide motion.. moving the platform forward and sideways..
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Post by snafky on Mar 11, 2016 7:59:12 GMT
Ok! that's good to hear!
Thank you so much for the offer that i can come by in the future, in the back of my mind i was hoping such a thing could be possible! ;-)
When i have moved house and stuff done i will contact you (it will be months...)
I can imagen a bit extra room is needed but if the footprint is this size is must be possible.
I am planning on strickly using the rift on the platform.
Monitors are a bit bulky and cost money ;-)
By the way, what i can bring along at that time is my "butt kicker" (http://www.thebuttkicker.com/)
Perhaps you allready have one and otherwise you can try it!
Maybe you know but this device can give vibrations to seats and stuff, adding to the simulation :-)
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Post by mhensen on Mar 11, 2016 11:00:01 GMT
I have 2 of them.. But I plan to use a single one directly under the seat as I use to.. but for now I concentrate on the movement :-) and then install the kicker (gamer2)
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Post by carbon on Mar 11, 2016 21:13:38 GMT
Tuning of BFF for the oculus is a hard.. If I set the motion too steep the oculus looses it's focal point .. This while the camera is fixed on the rig, it shifts the view, internal sensors are disturbing the camera.... So I think I need to tune it to short but hard motion instead of deep/high pitching.. (I end up somewhere outside the car.. this is LFS testing, not sure about other games yet. So I have to restart from the beginning and try to make a BFF config that is not moving too steep I guess. Interesting, I haven't run into that issue with DK2 yet - maybe because my rig does not move as much as yours? Do you have a video of it losing track? |
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Post by mhensen on Mar 12, 2016 7:28:30 GMT
I have to try again as I am not running the rift while tuning.. But it could also be 'Life For Speed', I know they have implemented it as a sort of free world, you latterly can step out of the car, while iracing has a boundary box around the head..
So I have to keep on trying to get my BFF settings right, I am getting closer but still my frontend is shaking on the way down.. It is less then unloaded but still.
It is only when both motores 1 and 2 are going down to the same position in a straight way.. in a breaking dive it is much less and in a roll it is not there.. buit in heave it trembles and shakes.
I will make my arms longer to see if that helps..
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Post by mhensen on Mar 21, 2016 21:52:50 GMT
As I am still fighting the shaking motion on pitching down and heaving I think I have found my problem..
It is the backlash in the gearbox that is nagging, it is not much but enough to have the upper platform start rocking, it starts small but gets increased in the motion down.. now is my question how I can correct or lessen/eliminate this?
First I thought it was the lower frame, but that wasn't the problem as I checked all bots and there is no movement there..
I am thinking of 2 possible solutions.. either shorten the lever.. it is 180mm now, could be reduced to 150mm
or shorten the distance between the motorpair, to distribute the weight of the pair more evenly??..What would be the ideal angle between arm and lever when the lever is at 90 degrees/midpoint??
What would you/anybody suggest? Or is there nothing I could do?
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Post by paulg100 on Mar 22, 2016 7:01:27 GMT
Did you follow Fabis dimensions? If you made the top frame to the dimensions the spacing of the lower motors will "reverse engineer" its self if you use the angles fabi posted. Those levers are 160mm (I used this also). But again if you work the extra 20mm into the plans it should adjust everything accordingly. EDIT: Sorry just thought to keep the same angles at 180mm maybe you needed to increase the spacing of the upper heim points. and also rod length. beacuse the radial arm length is different things are not going to scale linearly? I moved my heim points on top platform 15mm closer and adjusted everything else accordingly (with the same 160mm lever length) and hopefully it is ok (it seems to be in last tests but that was without final loading) Obviously theres proper math for working all this out but it melts my brain  |
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Post by mhensen on Mar 22, 2016 10:19:05 GMT
Hmm... measures are ok.. I just rechecked the angles etc..
What I notice is that when I slowly move it down I can feel the motors stutter instead of fluent movement.. This especially in 2 front motors.. if I move my sliders just a bit I notice 1 motor going before the other and they start weaving against each other..
playing with the P(id) I have slid it down to 10 to minimize the stuttering of both motors against each other.. Perhaps I need to adjust the pot meter just a bit so they start more equally.. it is just a fraction of a second difference..
I continue playing with all my settings.. I guess that there is some to gain.. Any suggestions on PID settings.. I have them now at 10-0-0 or should I play more with the I and D? (lost in that :-))
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