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Post by mhensen on Feb 9, 2016 10:36:38 GMT
Thanks carbon , I hope the EMI is not really a problem.. So I'll have to see if it wll become a problem!!
But I am looking at diagrams to hook up the inverter to the Thanos board and I noticed a ground line that I think is not 'needed' I see 2 times a ground wire foing to both of the 'L' positions of the inverter.. Isn't just the L on the lower row of the inverter enough and skip the L going to the ground of the 24v power supply?!
I imagined that all grounds are connected somehow.. especially 2 marked tabs with same name ('L')
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Post by paulg100 on Feb 9, 2016 10:59:13 GMT
you only need one, you can leave out the shared L one on top row
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Post by mhensen on Feb 9, 2016 21:23:29 GMT
Would like to fire up a single motor tomorrow, but damn, I am a bit hasitating as I don't know what to expect, is everything correctly connected.. So any tips or steps to ease me?
I am guessing that if I fire it up, that I can control the motor with the pot meter. I leave that one of the engine and want to control it manually at first..
So please any tips arew welcome.. I have to go through the first start :-(
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Post by snafky on Feb 9, 2016 21:46:37 GMT
With the other project that i have done the best lesson i have learned is
don't rush....and double check polarities ;-)
But you come accross as being pretty thorough so i would say....go for it!!! ;-)
sorry cant help you much more ;-)
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Post by paulg100 on Feb 9, 2016 22:09:40 GMT
ive added my settings for Wj200 to my thread Micheal, there is enough there to get you up and running.
just remember the L-PLC jumper and check incoming and out going power goes to correct terminals on VFD and you will be fine.
once youve done the main settings, set your f002 and f003 to say 0.1 then go to f001 and set speed frequency then press run and things should start moving.
(apart from my pot issues my motors are running responsive and smooth so far and pretty quite at PWM 10hz, especially after auto tune)
My pots seem to be SUPER sensitive to zero out, i cant believe it can be this hard!! so i look forward to seeing how you get on.
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Post by mhensen on Feb 9, 2016 22:19:39 GMT
I have one more question n the grounding.. The complate cabinet will be grounded so all VFD and motors are connected to the same ground, now I also asume that the 24v grounmd (the '-' )needs to be on that ground too?
So that all is named ground goes to the same groundpin, or should I keep the 24v ground (minus lead) ndisconnected from that common ground!
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Post by paulg100 on Feb 9, 2016 22:27:36 GMT
i have my 24v supply on a separate fuse which is housed in a consumer unit. all grounds for fuses run on bus bar to main incomming ground.
i have a ground running from bus bar to cabinet ground.
so even in this isolated set up, everything ends up running back to the same ground eventually.
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Post by mhensen on Feb 9, 2016 22:36:02 GMT
I think I misphrased my question or I am understanding it all wrong.. I am meaning that as I've understood that the output of the 24V DC is a +24 and a -0. this minus lead would that be also running to the ground so that the ground on the thanos is the same as the ground in the cabinet wich runs back to the main incoming ground.. So I was thinking of running a wire from the minus(-) noutput of the 24 DC adapter to ground..
I hope I made it more clear..otherwise I will first run it clean directly + and - (24V) to the thanos board.. but I have feel that I create 2 seperate circuits and that the ground on the thanos board is not shared with the rest anymore..
But while writing I rembember that we are feeding the ground of the thanos board back to the VFD.. So I guess I have my answer found.. I just keep it 'isolated' and run the power directly to the board.. |
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Post by paulg100 on Feb 10, 2016 6:47:04 GMT
yes i have my +24v and - on a "separate ground."
The ground from the the VFD goes to the 1-6 ground on 6dof board.
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Post by mhensen on Feb 10, 2016 21:16:52 GMT
I have started up my VFD and started to run the motor .. Well, I had no magic smoke or any other alarming issues..
I did the autotuning and set the input to be from the thanos board.. All fine, except I only can turn in the revser direction..
It will not turn to forward, it actually starts to make a nasty sound.. .. If I then take a look at the D00x parameters to view the 'data' I can see that in forward the data is fluctuating a lot and way too low..
Not quite sure how to explain.. but I've made a video of it,,
Doesn't look like a noise issue as I have a steady reading from my potmeter on the Thanos board..
anybody an idea on what to check?!
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Post by paulg100 on Feb 10, 2016 21:27:47 GMT
Does the motor run normally from the vfd control panel? or did you go stright to terminal control (amc control)
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Post by mhensen on Feb 10, 2016 21:31:25 GMT
in autotunng it runs normally in formward direction.. so it isn't a motor issue in my opinion.. but the rest I checked with the thanos board and there I only can run it in reverse direction.
I am guessing that the signal on line 1 isn't ok.. But I have no clue on whatmight cause that..
I'll try to connect the motor to VFD 6 tomorrow.. and see if the problem keeps existing..
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Post by paulg100 on Feb 10, 2016 21:53:14 GMT
connections to analog 1 and 2 on vfd OK?
connections to AB on amc OK
connections to pot OK?
is it a stop problem with the pot? did you try rotating it 180 back to home, or try rotating back the opposite way to find home again.
I had a funky pot issue a while back(other than the centering prob) replaced wire to that pot and problem went. must have been a break in wire.
C001 and C002 set correct ie 00 and 01 (should be factory default)
F002 and F003 speed set OK?
do you have fabi's software installed yet?
The main tab shows all the AMC settings, might be worth posting a screen capture of it to check/compare settings.
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Post by mhensen on Feb 11, 2016 16:11:56 GMT
I've measured the output of the digitals and analogs as explained Thanos video, only with a multimeter and measured it again at the end of the wire..but that all seems to be ok..
So I guess that the disturbance is because of that all pot connections are wired but at the end there is no pot.. I think will first finish the build of the frame and then see if the issue persists or that it is gone..
So last thing tommorow is some welding, drilling and cutting.. and building it up.. should be done by the end of the weekend I think.. Already disassembled my currect frame to make way for the new one.. But damn.. it is big :-)
This is gonna be a wonderfull machine :-)
Although still not decided and commited on the Star or Delta configuration.. I think I will start Star and have it all up and running, I always can change that to Delta.. first let it get up and running, if I lack power I will rewire to delta..
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Post by paulg100 on Feb 11, 2016 17:53:07 GMT
yes you have to have a pot connected otherwise you will get odd behavior.
have a fun weekend building!
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