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Post by mhensen on Jan 31, 2016 9:40:09 GMT
As I am starting my electronics cabinet I just want to make sure of one thing.. Can the VFD's powered and switched on without having any load on them??.. Thus with a detached motor.. or do they need to have the motor connected!!! Just so that I can test step by step! don't want to destroy a VFD
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Post by paulg100 on Jan 31, 2016 10:05:13 GMT
one thing I noticed with your base Michael is that you have the metal for your mounts rotated compared to mine ie bolts go through narrow edge not wider edge.
You will be using a bolt and nut to secure the motor mounts to the base, have you made sure you can get a spanner into the base to reach the nut? especially the second mounting hole that's further in on the base?
i don't remember trying a vfd without anything connected but cant imagine it being a problem.
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Post by mhensen on Jan 31, 2016 10:20:11 GMT
one thing I noticed with your base Michael is that you have the metal for your mounts rotated compared to mine ie bolts go through narrow edge not wider edge. You will be using a bolt and nut to secure the motor mounts to the base, have you made sure you can get a spanner into the base to reach the nut? especially the second mounting hole that's further in on the base? i don't remember trying a vfd without anything connected but cant imagine it being a problem. Yep you are right.. I though of it and I will create a 'special' spanner that locks the nut between the walls of the tube.. I just need to clamp the nut and fil the gap to the wall.. If that doesn't work I have a problem... But I think it will work.. But a good notice!!!
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Post by mhensen on Jan 31, 2016 20:34:02 GMT
Read somewhere that the controller should be in a case... So this is my solution for fighting interferences and other disturbances.. Do you think this will work? The extension board will be outside the case as I though that that is not the most sensitive part! I need to cut one more hole for USB..
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Post by paulg100 on Jan 31, 2016 21:26:17 GMT
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Post by mhensen on Jan 31, 2016 22:15:42 GMT
I was under the impression that a faraday cage would be enough :-) this would be placed on a grounded plate.. so it should be a closed cage.. Like this explanation "A Faraday cage or Faraday shield is an enclosure formed by conductive material or by a mesh of such material, used to block electric fields. Faraday cages are named after the English scientist Michael Faraday, who invented them in 1836.[1]"
But I like the enclosure too.. but first I'll stick with this :-) Or some emi/rf shieldings on the cables themselves..
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Post by mhensen on Feb 5, 2016 11:19:13 GMT
Took my 3D printer for a spin and created me some sensor mounts.. They are rigid and nicely aligned, so no stress on the Pot meter.. The cap has the slotted pot shaft and it will lock on the key in the drive shaft All I need is levers !! But I am afraid that due to obligations I have no time this week to go to the workshop to make them.. So I'll be cleaning up some welds here at home and continue the electronics cabinet.. Perhaps even try to spin one of the motors.. Who knows :-)
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Post by GA-Dawg on Feb 5, 2016 19:02:27 GMT
Hi Mhensen,
Excellent work...If it's not to much to ask might I suggest that you share the .stl files. I am sure there are others who would greatly appreciate it.
-gadawg
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Post by mhensen on Feb 5, 2016 20:04:51 GMT
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Post by paulg100 on Feb 5, 2016 20:42:20 GMT
damn you made me want a 3d printer now great job i can confirm my centering issues are due to using flexible couplers , the pots are really sensitive so the mouting needs to be rigid for accuracy IMHO. is the part that goes round the shaft able to rotate and lock with a grub screw? based on my experience so far i found it easiest to lock the pot to the coupler first then let the shaft end rotate and lock it to the shaft once center is found. because of the sensitivity, trying to counter rotate the pot end to find center is much harder due to the diameter of the shaft (ie it takes a much smaller turn to make a bigger change) bit hard to explain until you get to that bit (if you havnt already), look forward to seeing how you tackle it, might give me a better idea
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Post by mhensen on Feb 5, 2016 21:06:49 GMT
For now I have the part around the shaft locking on the key itself.. So I must turn the pot itself.. But it is to reach.. I can loosen and tighten the nut on the pot very easy.. I did it this way with my 2DOF too, so I imagined it would work with these too :-) And Yes, a 3D printer is fun and helpfulll.. have been playing around them for 7 years now.. Started off with the Mendel, all threaded rod version, not comparable with the quality nowadays!! Even made my steering paddle shifters for my OSW and after 6 months it still is working fine! Next up are some isolation plates for the electronics to be mounted in the cabinet..
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Post by mhensen on Feb 8, 2016 18:39:24 GMT
Starting to cable up the cabinet!! So not all is mounted yet, but a start has been made!
So glad I have somebody a step ahead of me (paulg100 ). He used a larger version, I think a deeper version, of this server cabinet.. VFD's in front, Net filters and brake resistors on the back.. And the Thanos AMC1280USB on the Side, the board with the sensor connections will be shielded of with a cover :-)
Should be nice and tidy.. (enough)
Front
Back..
I will need some fans in bottom and top to get a decent airflow through the cabinet!!
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Post by paulg100 on Feb 8, 2016 20:33:52 GMT
Great job looks very pro.
Re the fans the deeper version has fan mounts in the top, i think thats what made me get it mainly.
But the case is easy enough to mod so some fans will fit somewhere easy.
What exactly do the net filters do?
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Post by mhensen on Feb 8, 2016 21:11:34 GMT
Thanks!!
It should remove the noise from the main lines so that my wife can keep watching tv?! I had the vfd's, net filters and brake resistors in one package deal.. so that's why I decided to put them in.. I cannot image it would hurt!!
for the fans I've order me 10x 24v 50mm fans at aliexpress..I also have the open space in the top and bottom linke in yours.. .. Then I will design me a bracket and print it :-) It is a real advantage to have a 3D printer.. and it's fun..
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Post by carbon on Feb 9, 2016 5:55:26 GMT
I was under the impression that a faraday cage would be enough :-) this would be placed on a grounded plate.. so it should be a closed cage.. Like this explanation "A Faraday cage or Faraday shield is an enclosure formed by conductive material or by a mesh of such material, used to block electric fields. Faraday cages are named after the English scientist Michael Faraday, who invented them in 1836.[1]" But I like the enclosure too.. but first I'll stick with this :-) Or some emi/rf shieldings on the cables themselves.. Designing EMI enclosures can be quite complex, I remember when I use to install them for Navy and Air force communications equipment, even the rubber seals had to be metalised and fans had to be covered by EMI shields and the doors had metal fingers. Commercial made Cabinets came with a EMI rating and were quite expensive to purchase. If you get it wrong it can actually make it worse, as it is possible for parts of the enclosure to turn into a antenna and amplify the signal you are trying to suppress. Just food for thought.
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