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Post by mhensen on Feb 17, 2016 22:19:28 GMT
tronicgr : Tonight I took the door of the cabinet out and started measuring the outputs on the digital and analog sides, I couldn;t wait for a scope. I think they are ok!! Well this is after replacing one of the ULN2981 chips, I had ordered me a spare as I was suspecting one was off.. just didn't know which one!.. the original one didn't respond on 1A and 1B.. both measured a constant 21v, dispite what button was pressed
This could clarify why my motor doesn't want to turn correctly or not at all.. as I only tested motor 1 constantly!
But now I see that I have between 0.8 and 24.5V for direction change.. So I think it is ok again.. can you confirm this Thanos?! The analog outputs also seems fine with 9.7 volts..
Btw the fluctuation of the ports above 1 went away as soon as I attached a pot to it.. then the voltage is solid and not interferred.. So I think the board is ready to go again :-)
Tommorow I'll test the VFD with the pot meter.. did find reference on how it should be attached.. so that is the next step..
Once done the first one, I think I set them up all the same way and test them with the external pot one by one, before atttaching the board!
But anyway, I have good faith as I don't see any bears on my path running around !!!?? |
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Post by tronicgr on Feb 18, 2016 1:25:33 GMT
0.8 and 24.5V is ok for the 24v logic as zero is not exactly 0v, I have seen ranges 1.2v to 22v and still work fine.
Good luck with it! These Darlington chips are too sensitive to static electricity, try not to touch then unless you ground yourself first.
I'll watch your video later when in wifi range.
Thanks
Thanos
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Post by tronicgr on Feb 18, 2016 11:24:48 GMT
I just seen the video and realized that the wires you are using between the amc1280usb and the 6DOF ext board might be a little too long. Long wires might cause missing clock pulses from voltage drop or external EMI noise from the VFDs as the extension board uses SPI interface. It might be working fine while testing but its different story if you place it in a "noisy" environment.
If using wires the distance should not be more than 5-10cm, that's the reason I provide a connector that is as short is possible between the two boards.
Thanks
Thanos
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Post by mhensen on Feb 18, 2016 11:55:50 GMT
Thanks, but that is not good!! :-)
Now I have to reposition the board and have no more yellow cable left :-(
I'll start testing it like this first and try to figure out how to prevent EMI noise to get into the line by shortening and shielding.. otherwise order me some new cable and reposition..
But thanks.. now I now what to expect and can work on!!!
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Post by mhensen on Feb 18, 2016 21:42:11 GMT
Did the pot testing on VFD 1! I forst had it set to factory default.. then I did autotune with rotation and switch to the O input and voila.. I had it the motor rotating based on the potmeter and direction based on rthe 24 volt. So I guess I have the settings for the VFD ok.. So tommorow I will get 2 new 16A lines.. I will split these 2 lines between the 6 VDF's all even on 1 and all uneven on the other.. Although I now have the motors configured in STAR I still think they are pretty srong.. So Perhaps it os not needed to move to DELTA> ut time will tell.. I have to see it will full Load.. So the weekend will be working on connecting the AMC to the VFD's and see if it will work. I did move the boards around to get a shorter distance between the 2 boards.. Now it is at wirelength 10CM and I wrapped it in alumnium foil.. I can attach this to ground if needed.. To paulg100. I am pretty curious about your tests with the capacitors, have you been able to run several versions in parallel? Could be I am needing this too! |
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Post by paulg100 on Feb 18, 2016 21:56:52 GMT
Hi Michael Really glad to see you are making progress, some great fault finding, can get pretty frustrating when you hit a blocker and cant figure it out! Re the capacitors a 0.1uf ceramic disc capacitor reduced the noise jitter considerably but i still have some left presumably at a frequency the 0.1 is not smoothing. Ive tried using multiples of 0.1uf in parallel but it dosent help. I need to identify the problem frequencies to get the other caps needed then i can put the different values in parallel. Or infact if i understand correctly you choose a cap that covers the highest frequency i think. If its a large one they can be quite expensive so you can make up the value with multiples of smaller ones in parallel. At the moment im learning how to work the oscilloscope i bought which isnt as easy as i thought it would be, i understand the basic settings but im not sure how to pinpoint the problem frequencies exactly. Im hoping to upload an image or video at the weekend and see if i can get some help with the settings. I also bought a cheap LC filter to put on the AC side of the 24v psu and clean incomming power there, but it doesent seem to make any difference to the jitter issue, guess it cant hurt though. do you have your oscilloscope yet? if so do you understand how to use one properly or maybe you have some reading to do also?  on another note ive finished welding and painting secondary support frame to main top frame so almost ready to mount chair. am hoping to do this at weekend then run fabi's PID auto tune. Having a properly set PID will at least eliminate any issues from that end. |
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Post by mhensen on Feb 18, 2016 22:08:58 GMT
Yep, pretty glad I could figure out what the problem was!! one chip went bad but it was on motor 1 and that kept me busy :-)
As far as I understood you need multiple values in parralel. I think I'll see the same 'problem' as soon as I have it all up and running!
I ended up with a shoutout on facebook, and today they lend me a really old scoop.. but it wokrs,. But as I found my problem I hope I don't need to use it.. But for the time being I have a scoop at hand.. But first things first.. get it moving at all 6 VFD's :-)!!!
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Post by mhensen on Feb 19, 2016 9:07:42 GMT
1 small step, but man... I AM HAPPY !! Thanks all for the tips and advices!!!
I couldn't resist and connected the board to VFD 1, attached the pot, powered up and it came alive!!!! Rotated the pot to the 0 point, the lever followed nicely, I can push the buttons.. it works. Big, big smile on my face!! That's what I call a milestone :-)
I know.. it is just 1 motor, 1 VFD but replicating this to 5 more should be a lot easier then getting up the first one!! :-)
I also do have the crackling sound at the 0 point, but for now I am not gonna worry about it.. first finish the build and then worry about that part.. I don't see or feel the lever moving though!!
Next up is wait for all the juice that will be brought to the attic and then connect and start the others one by one!!!
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Post by mhensen on Feb 19, 2016 21:36:43 GMT
Although the electrician didn't show up I have all motors running .. But it all moves the opposite way, contra of what I expect.. I think I have made a mistake somewhere.. in heaving .With the Fabi's Thanos Board Configurator the lower the values the higher the platform goes.. Probably need to reverse the direction wires.. don't dare to change the pot direction , or should I?!
But one thing I noticed is that sometimes a motor gets 'stuck' in a certain position always motors 4 or 6.. what can that be??
I'll continue the build, will align it as best as I can an brace the top of the motors to make it more solid..
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Post by paulg100 on Feb 19, 2016 22:23:53 GMT
i set 1,3,5 pos 2,4,6 neg on mine then left all my pots the same and just switched around thr a/b's until i got the correct behavior.
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Post by mhensen on Feb 20, 2016 20:51:27 GMT
Looks like everybody with running projects is busy :-)
For me too..
I have made great progress.. Did some motion with the configuration tool and the simulator tool.. no real sims as I am not ready for that..
I am running in 1 particular issue.. And I don't know how to resolve.. moving the platform in the upward direction all is super smooth.. but going down I have a lot of jittering, like it is going down too fast and gets caught by the pot and stops and moves again. Or is it because there isn't enough weight on it?! Going up is not a problem , but down is a rumble!
Well I hope somebody knows how to resolve that particular issue!
One other question is how to limit the range of the lever.. is that the sensor range?
I believe at 50% is 90 degrees up and down from the horizontal position.. if I set it to 35 will it decrease ?
Like this red range I have in a simple drawing
 Where black would be 50% an red what I want :-)
I guess that no other software can overrule this range!!
Here is my current standing:
 A few more fixtures needed and then I can start building up the frame
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Post by GA-Dawg on Feb 20, 2016 21:09:33 GMT
Very nice....I am painting....I hate painting.  |
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Post by tronicgr on Feb 21, 2016 0:07:09 GMT
Looks like everybody with running projects is busy :-)
For me too..
I have made great progress.. Did some motion with the configuration tool and the simulator tool.. no real sims as I am not ready for that..
I am running in 1 particular issue.. And I don't know how to resolve.. moving the platform in the upward direction all is super smooth.. but going down I have a lot of jittering, like it is going down too fast and gets caught by the pot and stops and moves again. Or is it because there isn't enough weight on it?! Going up is not a problem , but down is a rumble!
Well I hope somebody knows how to resolve that particular issue!
One other question is how to limit the range of the lever.. is that the sensor range?
I believe at 50% is 90 degrees up and down from the horizontal position.. if I set it to 35 will it decrease ?
Like this red range I have in a simple drawing
Where black would be 50% an red what I want :-)
I guess that no other software can overrule this range!!
Here is my current standing:
A few more fixtures needed and then I can start building up the frame
Since you don't have any load on the platform its very light on the way down. Add some weight to it and you will see it behave better. The reason of the "rumble" is that the gearboxes have some backlash... Thanks Thanos |
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Post by paulg100 on Feb 21, 2016 10:55:05 GMT
Looking good!! not sure about the sensor range question i havnt looked at that yet,
Agree with GA prep and painting is very laborious and time consuming, you've saved a ton using the carbon fiber wrap and it looks great.
When your motors return to home position are you getting any jitter like mine or is everything good?
Did you shorten the rod arm length to upper platform or is it the angle of the picture?
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Post by mhensen on Feb 21, 2016 20:11:53 GMT
I am getting the crackling noise when it homes.. and see a 0.75 hz on some of the vfd's .. not all and not always the same ones!!
No I didn't shorten the arms but I have it in the lower position.. that is why it looks 'weird' and with short arms.. But I want to have it started just away from the lowest, otherwise it will be rather gig clime to get on .. and BFF starts it in the lower position too.. so I imagined that I always have it resting at this height..
Today I managed to do quite a lot.. fixated the lower platform.. did a trial with bff motion.. tuning it all the way down, so it won't break anything!! and holy sh*t.. it works.. so cool to see all movement working.. just drove a mini as the F1 was moving really fast on the sim.. perhaps I need to get the min/max values from the games first and manually change them to 'fake' a bigger range..
Next up was cutting down my current frame and recreate it on the sim.. Now it starts to look like a race sim!! Still need to fixate the bottom plate at the front.. but that is a small job for later, but before driving.. Then still some cable management and cleaning up to do, move my computer around and make sure I can reach it from the sim, but the end is getting nearer!
and an emergence switch.. I am still missing that !!
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