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Post by Trip Rodriguez on Nov 1, 2016 9:15:23 GMT
Hey guys, I still need those questions above answered but in the meantime wanted to give an update.
I attached my upper platform to adjust my sensor positions, and I tested and I can let my motors (one at a time) spin 360 degrees to do the auto tune without any problems, so let me know if I can do that.
I also discovered even with my shorter torque arm settings (currently set to 130mm) the platform has more travel than I could use. Full down pitch gave me a CRAZY steep platform and would definitely have the platform interfering with the base. I did not expect this would be the case. I will definitely be needing to learn how to adjust the max travels to make sure nothing hits anything else and don't recall any detail on that in any of the other threads here I've read. How do I do this? Do I have to limit the max travel of each actuator or do I limit the max travel of the platform (so I lose angle but not heave for example)?
This also makes me wonder about the torque arm lengths. I never did get any answers to my questions about the impact of using different length arms and would VERY much like to talk to someone who knows the maths and can answer my many questions. I went with a shorter setting to sacrifice some travel for more rapid accelerations but now I see the angle wasn't the limiting factor so now I have even more reason to want answers to exactly what impact the torque arm length will have on my sim's performance (remember mine is 100% for Oculus Rift). I have 100mm, 130mm, 160mm, and 190mm settings on my torque arms. I know enough to know that there is a LOT of math and knowledge needed to answer my questions. Longer arms mean faster platform movement at a given motor speed, but more torque required and therefore likely slower acceleration. The way these factors combine and balance against one another is what I'm really wanting to know. There is also the fact that the shorter the arms the smaller the radius which also has interesting implications that I generally understand but don't know how they balance out.
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Post by paulg100 on Nov 1, 2016 20:39:29 GMT
a) yes follow ga's instructions exactly and it will work. b) if behavior is correct then no.. c) is amc being picked up and assigned a com port in device manager, if so then probably not. d) once you have run autotune, all motors are running in correct directions, stopping at 180 limits (less amc setting) and returning to home normally. e)brake resistor wiring:
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Post by paulg100 on Nov 1, 2016 20:46:06 GMT
"Do I have to limit the max travel of each actuator or do I limit the max travel of the platform (so I lose angle but not heave for example)? " if you want to cap all limits can do through amc or through motion software, if you want to cap only certain axis then you do this through the motion software. if you are using BFF to begin with then you need to spend a good amount of time reading through the documentation. its not to difficult once you have had a play with it all will become clear my maths knowledge is limited im afraid, someone else will have to help with that. theres some very good info on that on xsimulator forums but dont have the links off hand.
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Post by Trip Rodriguez on Nov 1, 2016 21:16:54 GMT
Thanks again PaulG, you've been a tremendous help! It looks like I found the part of GA-Dawg's thread with the instructions you are referring to, I was looking in the wrong section. Started at the very beginning after you told me they were there and saw the link to the tuning section and voila, there they are. It's alive! So many thank you's are owed, this is super exciting!
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Post by Trip Rodriguez on Nov 2, 2016 6:13:56 GMT
Good progress today but stuck again!
I got to the point of trying to run Fabi's software. When I got to the PID adjust my sim was jerking violently once in a while and also the waves were erratic, I can post a video and might do so shortly.
I hadn't installed my capacitors yet and thought EMI might be what was going on so I shut everything down to install the caps. It was very difficult to get the caps inserted along with the 18 gauge wire! After doing that (caps on the AMC1280 between each V-out and Ground and on the 6DOF extension board accross each A/B 1/2 pair) my Thanos board flashes a red light briefly when I plug it in and just stays stuck on the screen where it says Thanos TronicGR.
I tried reflashing the board and was able to do so successfully but it still behaves the same way afterward. I tried disconnecting the 6DOF board from the AMC1280 and no change. What do I do?
Note: You will need to watch in HD and full screen the video to see what is happening in Fabi's software. At the time of this post the video is not yet available in HD but it will be once YouTube finishes processing it.
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Post by Trip Rodriguez on Nov 2, 2016 6:15:00 GMT
Still dead in the water (HELP!) for the reasons posted above, but another note of interest, earlier tonight (before current problem) I had to reflash my Thanos board and afterward I got violent oscillation and had to once again reverse every single pair of 1/2 wires.
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Post by paulg100 on Nov 2, 2016 6:56:27 GMT
If you rest/flashed the amc then you probably rest set the Pos/Neg setting so that's why you had to change A/B wires all around again.
Firstly set your P to 18 and make I and D 0 for now
Set min motor speed on amc to 1
what is your increment in fabis's software? 1?
I'm guessing B082 on VFD is set at 0.5 (fac default)? that means the platform will not move at anything less than 0.5hz so will jump with an increment of 1. You need B082 as low as you can get it 1) for response and 2) to smooth motion.
Drop this to 0.1 to start and see if that smooths things out.
Do not discount the 6dof chips if you are having odd behavior that dosent make sense, they are very sensitive. In that instance always worth checking outputs are reading correct values there (use thanos video to check 6 dof values when needed)
And make sure you always wear an anti static strap when working around 6dof board.
finally did you run auto tune yet and you are using autotune data on vfd? that will also help smooth things.
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Post by Trip Rodriguez on Nov 2, 2016 7:27:13 GMT
Paulg, main problem is right now I can't do ANYTHING with the Thanos board. It is stuck with the LCD showing "Thanos TronicGR" and the knob does nothing. That is what I'm desperate for help with right now.
Auto tune done and applied. Will check the rest tomorrow.
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Post by paulg100 on Nov 2, 2016 8:02:17 GMT
"Thanos board flashes a red light briefly when I plug it in and just stays stuck on the screen where it says Thanos TronicGR."
are you sure you havnt shorted something with the caps?. take all the caps out and start again.
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Post by Trip Rodriguez on Nov 2, 2016 8:30:45 GMT
"Thanos board flashes a red light briefly when I plug it in and just stays stuck on the screen where it says Thanos TronicGR." are you sure you havnt shorted something with the caps?. take all the caps out and start again. That's what I was afraid of but was hoping for confirmation before messing with it. Putting in the caps was a real pain and took over an hour so didn't want to do it over without being fairly confident. I'll start with a closer inspection.
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Post by tronicgr on Nov 2, 2016 10:42:56 GMT
Paulg, main problem is right now I can't do ANYTHING with the Thanos board. It is stuck with the LCD showing "Thanos TronicGR" and the knob does nothing. That is what I'm desperate for help with right now. Auto tune done and applied. Will check the rest tomorrow. Place the DIP switch #1 to up position, this will enable again the lcd menu.
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Post by Trip Rodriguez on Nov 2, 2016 23:53:37 GMT
Thanks Thanos! That was it. I must have accidentally pushed it in when I was installing the caps. Trying fabi's tool again right now, watch live (and talk to me live in chat) at www.twitch.tv/triprodriguez
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Post by Trip Rodriguez on Nov 3, 2016 0:06:53 GMT
Lowered b082 to .1 which made the platform a LOT noisier.
Running Fabi's tool right now and increasing P until oscillation but have a question. Am I looking for the arms to be oscillating quite visibly or so little I can't hardly tell? I can turn P really high without having the kind of oscillation I expect.
Should I be staring VERY hard at the arms to try to detect this oscillation?
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Post by Trip Rodriguez on Nov 3, 2016 1:18:28 GMT
Ok guys, so here is where I stand. I had to turn the P setting all the way up (254) to get oscillation. Once I got that to happen I was able to set the PID with the tool but my numbers seem a bit crazy! I'll post the video later tonight. I then saw GA-Dawg said that things went better when he set his inverter setting A013 to 2 so I went and did that. Is it ok I did that AFTER running Fabi's tool and setting PID? Do I have to do it over? Should I keep setting A013 at 2 or not? Moving on to installing and trying to figure out X-sim a bit. PS- Here is what I've got:
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Post by Trip Rodriguez on Nov 3, 2016 1:55:55 GMT
I know Ians BFF is better for flight but I heard X-sim is easier to set up and currently I have flight sim controls mounted. Anyone have an X-sim profile for FSX or Prepar3d? I'm going to look for a youtube video to hopefully get me started setting up x-sim.
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