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Post by tronicgr on Nov 14, 2017 19:44:16 GMT
This looks correct.
You don't really need the relay for the kill switch. You can wire the the kill switch directly to a N/O mushroom type switch with the lock.
I like the counter load spring idea!
Thanks Thanos
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Post by riton39 on Nov 14, 2017 20:12:18 GMT
This looks correct. You don't really need the relay for the kill switch. You can wire the the kill switch directly to a N/O mushroom type switch with the lock. I like the counter load spring idea!
Thanks Thanos yes very good idea !
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johann
Junior Member
Posts: 57
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Post by johann on Nov 17, 2017 18:07:52 GMT
Hi friends,
thanks for the answers. The relais is only for my 3 save switches. The board needs to be open and the switches are closed.
Johann
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Post by tronicgr on Nov 18, 2017 13:14:13 GMT
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johann
Junior Member
Posts: 57
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Post by johann on Nov 23, 2017 10:42:36 GMT
Hi Thanos, you ar right most of the kill switches have both conntacts. But my ones only have NC, see pictures. In this case I need the relais. But it isn't a problem. It's easy to do it for me. Another question to the WJ200 inverter: The default of the DIP switches is "OFF", see picture. I use break resistors (400Ohm/300W). What are the right positions for the DIP switches? All "OFF" or one of them (1,2 or 3) "ON"? Thanks for your help Johann
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Post by tronicgr on Nov 25, 2017 16:46:33 GMT
Hi Thanos, you ar right most of the kill switches have both conntacts. But my ones only have NC, see pictures. View AttachmentView AttachmentIn this case I need the relais. But it isn't a problem. It's easy to do it for me. Another question to the WJ200 inverter: The default of the DIP switches is "OFF", see picture. View AttachmentI use break resistors (400Ohm/300W). What are the right positions for the DIP switches? All "OFF" or one of them (1,2 or 3) "ON"? Thanks for your help Johann Not sure about these dip switches, what does the manual says about them?
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johann
Junior Member
Posts: 57
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Post by johann on Nov 28, 2017 12:17:17 GMT
Hi Thanos and all you others, I was looking in different manuals and threads but I didn't find an answer for my question. Sorry I hope someone has experience with this kind of inverters and can help me. Only inside the German manual I found some short explanation. Here are the pictures to it: But I don't know what is the right position for this 3 switches? Sorry I'm a brand new beginer ... Is DIP 1 "ON" because of the breaking resistor (400 Ohm / 300W) or "OFF" ? I guess DIP 2 and 3 are "OFF"? I hope someone can answer my question. Thanks Johann
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johann
Junior Member
Posts: 57
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Post by johann on Dec 14, 2017 15:16:01 GMT
Hi friends, I can’t believe that no one can answer my question about the dip switch positions. There are lots of people who used this kind of inverters. Is there no one how can help me? I’ve done now all the wiring (see picture) and I’ll like to set all the parameter for the inverters. I’ve also a new question now to that. Can I do the settings to the WJ200_007 when I put only the 24V on? Hope for help before christmas … Thanks Regards Johann
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Post by tronicgr on Dec 15, 2017 16:56:49 GMT
Hi Johann, Yes, I think you can get the inverter panel working only with 24v on, but you could always turn it fully on and disconnect the motor from it. I looked at the manual for these three DIP switches. See what I found so far: www.hitachi-america.us/supportingdocs/forbus/inverters/Support/WJ200_Instruction_NT325X.pdfDIP sw 1 info on page 332 (Not needed, is used only for termination of MODbus network) DIP sw 2 and DIP sw 3 are also used from MODbus to set active node mode or alternative halt commands when talking to master Modbus host. Since you are not using MODbus, you don't need to set these DIP switches. Thanks Thanos
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johann
Junior Member
Posts: 57
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Post by johann on Dec 16, 2017 10:38:12 GMT
Hi Thanos, thanks for the answer. Now I did the first test with this VDF parameters: A001 = 01 A002 = 01 A003 =50 A044 = 03 A051 = 01 A054 = 80% A082 = 230/400 B settings B033 = 7 B083 = 15 B090 = 30.0 B095 = 02 B097 = 300 B130 = 01 H settings H001 = 01 H002 = 00 H003 =0.55 H004 = 6 F settings F002 = .10 F003 = .02 When I start the AMC it don’t show the poti position? I think, that’s not ok. All the potis and cranks are in the middle and the voltage of the potis output is 2.5V Is there a jumper wrong? I used it first with the servo equipment and it worked fine. Here are my actual bord I connected the AMC to BFF software and tried to move the motors manually but nothing happened. What can be wrong? Thanks for your help again … Regards Johann
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johann
Junior Member
Posts: 57
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Post by johann on Dec 16, 2017 11:17:44 GMT
Hi Thanos,
sorry the jumper s2 is wrong. I removed it and now it works :-). I'm going on to do the next test ...
Regards Johann
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johann
Junior Member
Posts: 57
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Post by johann on Jan 24, 2018 13:15:01 GMT
Hi friends, Hitachi recommended: Set A044 to 00, F002, F003 increase drastically and wire the motors from star to triangle. WJ200-007-SF has only 230V on the output side and forget all the H020 to H024 parameters ... I didn’t found a tread which recommended this. Now what is to do Please help ... Johann
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johann
Junior Member
Posts: 57
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Post by johann on Feb 16, 2018 11:19:44 GMT
Hi all,
if some of you have a WJ200 VFD please can you say how the auto tune is to do? I tried it but nothing happened. A short video would be helpful. I didn’t found one till now on you tube.
And I didn’t get any answers to my questions till now :-(.
In between I rewired the motors from star to triangle. For the first moment it seems that they will run now up and down. But at the second test they stopped in the middle and don’t drive till now. I guess that the values for the motors inside my WJ200-007-SF are set wrong.
My hope is that after an auto tuning it’ll be better.
Thanks for help Johann
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Post by hexpod on Feb 17, 2018 15:01:14 GMT
Hi all, if some of you have a WJ200 VFD please can you say how the auto tune is to do? I tried it but nothing happened. A short video would be helpful. I didn’t found one till now on you tube. And I didn’t get any answers to my questions till now :-(. In between I rewired the motors from star to triangle. For the first moment it seems that they will run now up and down. But at the second test they stopped in the middle and don’t drive till now. I guess that the values for the motors inside my WJ200-007-SF are set wrong. My hope is that after an auto tuning it’ll be better. Thanks for help As my servo motors allows only one instance per computer I had to do the autotune motor by motor separately. I had to limit the acceleration acording to the load and the gearbox limits, otherwise I would damage the mechanics. I had to choose the autotune amplitude by mooving the arm by hand before running the auto tune process. I had to set all other arms holding the platform starting position, than jump in the rig and run the process. I repeated it for 5 other motors. In your case, I guess your inverters have to have their own auto tune procedure which will be quiet different from my setup. Ask the manufacturer or the seller of your equipment, They should answer your questions. cheers
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Post by tronicgr on Feb 17, 2018 16:15:06 GMT
The autotune for the vfds is not same as for clearpath motors. Its designed to have the vfd discover the motor properties more accurately so it will have a better model to use for its vector sensorless control.
Also, i recommend wiring AC motors in star topology, as delta draws too much current (shorts each winding essentially to locked antiphase loop to the next one...)
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